If anyone knows perpetual calendar chronographs then it’s Patek Philippe.They produced the 1518 over 70 years ago. It was the first watch with this combination of complications designed for the public. A rare bird, with less than 300 examples, the 1518 is a highly touted collector’s item noted for its rarity and complexity. Now Patek Philippe revisits the perpetual calendar chronograph in a modern interpretation of an old classic.
The 5270’s silvery opaline dial is set up in iconic formation with in-line aperture displays for the day and the month at 12 o’clock, and an analog date with a moon-phase aperture at 6 o’clock. The gold numerals are colored black from an oxidizing process, giving it a sleek, composed face.
Flared lugs secure on to the white gold case that features a concave bezel. In homage to the progenitors in this category, Patek chose rectangular chrono pushers as seen on the perpetual chronos from the 1940s and 1950s. Note that these characteristics brought record prices to these vintage pieces at auction, so Patek figured they couldn’t go wrong with the look by following a design pedigree.
What makes this watch particularly noteworthy, besides the balance of the dial and the sensuous curves of the case, is the movement inside. While the 5970 contained a refinished Lemania caliber with a perpetual calendar module, the 5270 sports the new high tech engine built in-house by Patek. The hand wound caliber CH 29-535 PS Q has a column-wheel controlled chronograph and a horizontal clutch that enables an instantaneous jump on the 30?minute counter. Comprised of 182 parts, the perpetual calendar mechanism measures a sleek 1.65mm.
The 5270, in a modern 41mm case, wraps around the wrist with a square-scaled alligator strap in matt black with a fold over clasp.