The introduction of a new Patek Philippe (understanding: not a declination of an existing range) is always a moment of curiosity mixed with excitement.
Patek Philippe, king of audacity ?
Last year, the launch of the 5524G had the effect of a bomb in the Basel fair. People had immediatly strong feelings about this watch, in a positive or negative way. Inspired by an old model of the Geneva manufacture, this one had appeared as a UFO in the collection. It did not look like any other model, with military codes linked to aviation that no one would have attributed to the very chic and prestigious Swiss watchmaker.
But Thierry Stern likes to surprise us and is not guided by fashions and comments. In 2017, this military inspiration is back again, in a more traditional shape, but the impact on the public is this time much more unanimous. To us, this watch is simply the most beautiful novelty of Baselworld 2017.
The 5320G is above all a great complication, the one that Patek Philippe perfectly masters: the perpetual calendar. The manufacture uses the automatic caliber 324 S Q displaying the day, the month, the bisextile years as well as the indication of day and night. The moonphase, very accurate, will ask an update every 122 years only.
Tradition with innovation
Let’s come back to the aesthetic codes. Here, the mix of the cream dial, the pointed hands and the superluminova coating gives this 5320G a resolutely sporty and vintage look reminding the old military watches. Very surprising to associate this design with a very traditional haute horlogerie complication ! If the white gold case seems classical at first sight, we clearly notice a lot of details proving once again that Patek Philippe always seeks complexity when it comes to create a new watch. Just like these three-tier lugs inspired by the legendary Ref. 2405 that dates back to the 1950s. This global mix works perfectly, and we were instantly charmed by this new time keeper.
And charm is very important when it comes to give 76 000€ to get hands on this beautiful 5320G. But according to the reactions at Baselworld, we do not worry about its success…
Case: 18K white gold
Sapphire-crystal case back and interchangeable solid 18K white-gold back
Water resistant to 30 m (3 bar)
Diameter: 40.00 mm
Dial: Brass, cream-colored lacquer
Applied Arabic numerals in blackened gold with Superluminova coating
12 applied five-minute cabochons in blackened gold with Superluminova coating
Hour and minute hands: sharp-tipped baton hands in 18K gold, blackened, with Superluminova coating
Parfil seconds hand in Pfinodal, counterbalanced
Printed date scale
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather with large square scales, matt chocolate brown, fold-over clasp in 18K white gold